Hiroshima, Japan (April 17-18, 2024)

I thought about skipping the excursion to the site of the atom bomb, but in the end I felt I had to bear witness to the devastation that took place on August 6, 1945. Touring the Hiroshima Peace Museum was sad and painful, and honestly I got to the point when I had to turn away from the horrifying photos of the injured and dead. But I’m glad I saw what I saw. I guess I could go on about the why and how the atom bomb was created and dropped on Nagasaki and Hiroshima. But ultimately I came away with one very visceral reaction: War is hell!!

Atom Bomb Dome

This was the only structure that remained standing in the area where the atomic bomb hit. It sits next to the Aioi Bridge which was the bomb’s target because it was close to the city center.

Hiroshima Memorial Park

The **Cenotaph** (monument commemorating the war dead) for the Victims of the Atomic Bomb was built in 1952. It contains the names of the known victims of the bombing. Names are added each year. The roof shape symbolizes sheltering the souls of victims. It is engraved with the words “Let all the souls here rest in peace, for we shall not repeat the evil.”

A monument to the children’s writer Miekichi Susuki, a native of Hiroshima who died in 1936. It was erected in 1964 as a symbol of Hiroshima’s return to normal life and overcoming post-atomic trauma. The sculptor was Katsuzo Entsuba.

The Children’s Peace Monument (1958) commemorates Sadako Sasaki and the thousands of child victims of the Hiroshima bomb. Sadako, age 2, survived the bombing, but 10 years later died of leukemia due to radiation poisoning from the uranium in the bomb. After she was admitted to the hospital, she learned of the Japanese legend that says if one creates a thousand origami cranes, they are granted one wish. Sadako had two wishes: to be well, and to have a world without nuclear weapons. So she began making origami cranes while she was in the hospital. According to her brother, Sadako finished folding the thousand cranes, plus 300 more. After her death in 1955, Sadako became an international symbol for peace, and countless colorful origami cranes made by Japanese children continue to commemorate her and her wish for world peace. The Children’s Peace Monument was built using money from a fundraising campaign by Japanese school children, including Sadako’s classmates. At the foot of the statue, a plague reads “This is our cry. This is our prayer. Peace in the world.”

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum

I took very few photos inside the Museum. Partly because I just wanted to absorb the impact of what I was seeing. But mostly because I felt it was disrespectful to take photos of all those men, women and children who were obviously suffering from their excruciating injuries, or those who lay dead.

The atomic bomb loaded into the B-29 Enola Gay on August 5, 1945

This was the only photo I took of victims of the bomb. I think it says it all.

Hiroshima Castle

Hiroshima Castle was built in 1591 for the residence of Mori Terumoto, a “daimyo”—a powerful member of the elite samurai class. The castle was largely destroyed by the atomic bomb, and was rebuilt in 1958. It sits on a hilltop and is five stories tall, surrounded by a moat. There are about 450 cherry trees on the castle grounds, which unfortunately were past their bloom.

A Gusoku (a “complete set” of samurai armor). How many pounds?? Plus, carrying a 3-foot-long steel sword!

Shukkei-en Garden

This beautiful, tranquil garden dates back to 1620 when it belonged to the Daimyo of Hiroshima, Asano Nagaakira. It sits in the heart of Hiroshima, surrounded by office buildings and skyscrapers. The garden is a popular place for wedding couples to have their professional photos taken. We were lucky to see two different couples—young and older—being photographed.

Beautiful spring blooms: peonies, cherry tree, iris, and azaleas:

Miyajima “Shrine Island”

Miyajima Island is a small island less than an hour outside the city of Hiroshima. It is most famous for its giant torii gate and its Itsukushima Shrine, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I wish I’d had more time to explore the island, but the short time I spent there was so enjoyable and memorable.

This magnificent O-Torii gate has been rebuilt a number of times. The first torii was erected in 593. The current one was constructed in 1875, the 8th time it has been rebuilt. It stands 50 feet tall and is made from 600-year-old camphor trees that are resistant to decay. The gate also includes stones and pebble inserted into the top to help keep it balanced. The gate’s roof is thatched with Japanese cypress bark, and its body is coated with vermilion lacquer. At high tide, the gate appears to float on the water. When the tide is out, visitors can walk up to it.

The Itsukushima Shrine is a Shinto shrine attributed to Taira no Kiyomori, a prominent noble of the Imperial Court. The Shrine is dedicated to three female deities, goddesses of seas and storms.

NOH PLAY: While I was exploring the shrine, I was fortunate to watch a Noh play being performed. Noh plays are a traditional form of Japanese theater that combine dance, music, and poetry. Noh is one of the oldest theatrical forms still in existence in the world, dating back to the 12th or 13th century. It became a ceremonial drama performed for the warrior class. Outside the noble houses, however, there were performances that popular audiences could attend.

Five-storied Gojunoto pagoda is dedicated to the Buddhist God of Medicine. It stands over 90 feet tall and is painted in vermillion and gold. I did not have the time or the energy to climb to the top.

In ancient times, the deer on Miyajima were worshipped as messengers of the Gods, and locals offered food to them in small temples. Now, visitors are not allowed to touch or feed the deer. They roam freely around the island.

In my wanderings, I came across this small exquisite Japanese garden tucked in a niche off the main path. I would have liked to sit on the one bench to just relax and take in the beauty, but no time to dally, and besides, the bench was occupied.

YUM! Grilled oysters. The perfect satisfying snack.

Momiji manju is a steamed buckwheat and rice cake pastry shaped like a maple leaf. Its origin dates back to the early 20th century. It’s typically stuffed with red bean paste, but also chocolate, matcha, and cream cheese. The one I ate was stuffed with matcha. Quite tasty. I paid for the manju, but the green tea was complimentary. The maple leaf shape refers to the numerous Japanese maple trees growing on the island. In Japanese culture, the maple leaf symbolizes peace, longevity, and prosperity.

These manju are baked in a maple leaf-shaped iron mold. They are a very popular quick snack and souvenir. They must make thousands of these per day!

Postscript

In case you’re wondering, Joe and I went on different excursions. We both love taking photos/videos, so it’s always interesting to compare his and mine, to see what captures each of our interest. These blog posts are always a combination of his and my photos/videos. I asked Joe what was the highlight of his time in Hiroshima. He felt the Peace Memorial Park and Museum was his favorite part. Of course, the Park and Museum were extraordinarily powerful sites for me as well, but for pure enjoyment, I’d have to pick Miyajima Island. Next stop, Kyoto!

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